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Corona Camper Repair

Published Jun 10, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Near Me Corona, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, however retracted both awning simply to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually pulled away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Corona Camper Repair. I'm presuming the fixing will entail changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing bigger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy experience before we recognized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out since it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is fine. The rear brace setting up is fine, but the front one is fractured at the bottom and completely appeared at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Corona Camper Repair).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely replaced? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was all new back then. If nothing else, we would like guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us via the summertime - without needing to put in a brand-new awning! We're in an extremely severe bind due to the fact that we have actually a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather discover a quick and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to get rid of the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roofing decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll also discover exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final steps of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground but I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's much like removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and after that just yank it out.

You might have to reduce completion with an energy blade if it is covered under. Just tug it out! As soon as the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply recognize it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was attached under it. When you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply moves right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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When both set screws were eliminated I might slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can remove the old roofing decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples quieting. I pried them out as finest I could. The following thing holding back the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding need to be removed.

After that I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a stiff 6 wide putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the exact same method, and curved it laterally just sufficient so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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The edge of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling but glue at this factor) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The whole point began to draw up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off just before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I found a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet glue now) and after that I could yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Corona Camper Repair. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding back the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up several of the broken bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to bring up easily intact without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I might see the steel framing below. Yet after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I don't recognize just how exactly they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof was shedding strength and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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