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(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened down.) I didn't see anything awry, but retracted both awning simply to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and turned a bit - Rv Camper Ac Repair Brea. I'm presuming the repair work will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience before we understood the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is fine. The back brace assembly is fine, however the front one is split at the bottom and entirely broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to see to it we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even get us through the summer season - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a quick and effective solution. Anyone? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off initially prior to the final steps of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step until the awning got on the ground yet I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. Once the mounting brackets are removed, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a regular piece of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the lower side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar requires to be removed. Below's a take a look at the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Simply pull it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the entire point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the best end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the two set screws were eliminated I can move the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the corner molding should be removed.

Then I might swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched over from a scraper to a rigid 6 wide putty blade. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that factor I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping knife. Then I loosened up the other corner trim in the same way, and curved it sidewards simply enough to make sure that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those edge trim pieces all the way down besides. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however adhesive at this moment) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly recognized the roofing system was losing stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much quieting however glue now) and then I can tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Rv Camper Ac Repair Brea. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scuffed up a few of the broken little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Now I could see the steel framework underneath. However then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

I quickly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off right before the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.