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Atwood Camper Service

Published Jun 06, 25
12 min read

Camper Awning Replacement Atwood, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything amiss, however retracted both awning simply to be secure. A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has actually retreated from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Atwood Camper Service. I'm presuming the repair service will require changing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket setting up is fine, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and completely appeared on top, to ensure that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper. We are in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the real support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Atwood Camper Service).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is damaged it has to be totally replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe also get us through the summertime - without needing to put in an all new awning! We're in a very serious bind since we have a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to find a quick and efficient solution. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Renovation Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I got rid of the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. But in order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the RV awning too.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise see just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially before the last actions of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Eliminating the placing bracket of the awning. Once the placing braces are detached, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is essentially much like a normal item of light weight aluminum roof covering edge trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. Below's a take a look at the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Heads up! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof like me, then you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You may need to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Then simply tug it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather swiftly.

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as both set screws were removed I can move the whole awning rail right off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can get rid of the old roofing system outdoor decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples stifling. I tore them out as finest I could. The following point holding back the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roof decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change have to be lifted. To raise that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

Then I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same method, and bent it sideways just sufficient so that I can lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. The edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Very same bargain again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and then I can yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the broken little bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly unscathed without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. But then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I don't know how precisely they managed to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roofing was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the very first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim pieces right down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

It's simply popping with the staples. The side of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting yet glue at this factor) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued beneath it. Atwood Camper Service. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Awning Replacement Atwood, CA

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the broken little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to draw up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I could see the steel framing below. Then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the items together. I do not know exactly how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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