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Rv Roof Replacement Santa Ana

Published Feb 15, 25
11 min read

Rv Roof Replacement Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

While you're cleaning, scuff off any kind of debris or old roof covering material, yet be mindful while you do this as you could quickly extend a tear, or even punch an opening with the roof. You should after that dry out the roofing system as best as you can. Keep In Mind: Rubber motor home roofing systems can be really slippery when damp.

After the roof covering is clean, you are going to want to check the seams for openings, splits or peeling off, so you can reseal any place necessary. In addition to that, you'll wish to resolve resealing all joints yearly whether or not they show signs of wear.

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When it involves selecting the very best RV roof sealant, you'll wish to consider whether you are fixing a tear, resealing a joint, or sealing the whole roofing system. The sort of roof covering is also crucial to bear in mind, as RV roofs can be made from either EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) and TPO (Thermal Polyolefin) and you require the product you utilize to be compatible with your roofing system kind.

Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant is an excellent option for going over old roof seals. It can be used for spot securing or to reseal every joint on the RV roofing. Simply cleanse the location well and apply with a caulk weapon. The things will level itself out, so don't fret concerning that part.

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Comparable to the EPDM system listed above, this layer item will cover your TPO roofing system and assist it last one more 10 years. Prior To EPDM and TPO, steel was the product of choice for RV roofing systems.

The aforementioned EternaBond is still king when it involves repairing tiny problems on a steel roof. It also functions well for securing joints. Recreational vehicle steel roof coverings do require to be completely resealed from time to time. Household roofing finishes will seal a metal roof simply fine, however the very best product by far, for steel roofings, is Dicor Metal RV Roof Covering Coating.

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See to it to reseal whenever essential and resolve resealing every one of the joints as soon as every year or two. Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealer functions well for this task. If your fiberglass roofing needs to be coated, Dicor Fiberglass Roofing Layer is an excellent choice. You'll require to remove the current roof covering.

Do this in small pieces all along the roofing system, cutting holes in the rubber roof for any type of attribute that will certainly go back right into the roof. Change your roof covering's followers, skylights, and Air conditioner unit.

My RV roofing that requires to be replaced! If you're like me and have even more time than money, then perhaps your ideal option is to get an old RV and fix it up.

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I obtain it. I acquired my RV over a year back and didn't have the digestive tracts to start tackling this job till today. I purchased this 1993 Jamboree for $5000.

The catch? Water damage! I've never dealt with a RV prior to and I have to admit, I'm scared. I've done a great deal of home improvement and I'm still terrified. That's due to the fact that this is all brand-new to me and I have no concept what to anticipate. With any luck if you're considering doing this on your own, complying with along on my motor home roof replacement project will provide you the guts to dive in! The tools I utilized today.

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I purchased a 12 x 26 SuperMax Cover by ShelterLogic (over $450 on Amazon however I acquired mine from Northern Tool for around $340!) and boosted the legs with wood extensions to make the canopy high sufficient that I might depend on the roofing and walk below it. That appeared to be my least expensive option.

I figured I would rather have it semi-portable so I chose the cover, plus this allows me to adjust the height up and down when I need to. Of program the most inexpensive choice of all would certainly be to simply throw a great tarpaulin over the top of your motor home for rainy days and just service sunny days! Initially I elevated the legs with 1 1/2 PVC pipe that fit inside the legs and then I connected a pipe clamp around the PVC pipeline to stand up the canopy legs.

After that I sawed 1 1/4 square legs from 24's to place inside the canopy legs (once again holding the cover up with pipeline clamps.) and strengthening the four edges with an added 24 screwed to it. This is still a little saggy. I possibly ought to have handed over for some stiff steel pipe from the beginning.

Splits in the EPDM roofing at side of camper. An old patch task on the RV rubber roof. Loads of caulk stacked over old problem areas. As you can see, this roofing has had a great deal of problems for many years. Looking from the within the camper there have clearly been leaks in several locations of the roofing system.

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I got hold of an energy knife and started slicing. The initial thing I discovered is that there were two layers. Under is the original EPDM rubber roofing system layer. I know it's EPDM rubber and not TPO rubber because of the black backing. (TPO roof is white on both sides.) On top of my EPDM roofing system is a thin recreational vehicle roofing system finishing that was used later.

I simply left the roof covering finish stayed with the EPDM roof covering and pulled them up together. (You do not require to peel them up independently.) Beginning to peel off roof finishing. Peeling off up area of the bottom layer of rubber. This reveals that the initial RV roofing system was EPDM as a result of the black backing.

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All rubber roof covering gotten rid of from camper. There was a glue under the lower layer of rubber that was still pretty well stuck in several locations, however with a good little bit of pressure it peeled off up easily.

Now I can see all the harmed plywood roof covering decking under. I have to caution you, the old adhesive was still sticky, and a discomfort to walk on.

If you think you'll be conserving the roof outdoor decking plywood (not changing it), then you might save on your own some cleaning trouble by eliminating the components initially and after that peeling up the rubber! Detail of water damage on camper roofing. Extra water damaged areas on RV roof covering outdoor decking. There was nothing really awful that made me feel like I was going to fail, however certainly a lot of damages and I was obtaining the sensation I would be changing a great deal of the roof covering outdoor decking plywood.

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I chose the easiest one initially, an air vent cap from a kitchen area sink pipes vent pipe. Beginning to scratch caulk and sealant. I used a tight scraper with a chisel-like blade and just began prying and cracking and scratching and hacking. There is nothing else means around this, you just have to start digging until you reveal the screw heads.

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Unscrewing the screws in air vent cap. The screws on this vent cap were hex-head steel screws so I used a little socket vehicle driver to remove them.

I uncovered an old wasp nest inside the vent cover. This is a view I'll most likely need to get made use of to, discovering the remains of pet habitation high and low. I invest a horrible lot of my time developing good wild animals environment in my backyard so I don't get angered when an animal selects to set up home in my recreational vehicle.

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The good news is nobody was home in this old nest so I simply threw it. You ought to try not to harm these items (like vent covers and caps) as you're scratching off the old caulk and sealant just in situation you require to use them again.

My roof covering air vent additionally had an air vent cover over it. Beginning on the roof vent. Equipment revealed on roof covering vent cap, the very first nut came off clean.

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The fasteners on this RV roof air vent cover were nuts on little bolts. The 2nd one just began rotating, implying the screw was not repaired in location but transforming along with the nut. A peek at the equipment holding down the roofing system vent cover.

I didn't have any kind of excellent means to hold the screw in position so rather I opted to saw with the screws with a reciprocating saw. Sawing via screws on roofing air vent cover. I made use of a cordless reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade but it was difficult to obtain the blade flat enough to reach the screws so near the roof covering deck.

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Bending the blade a bit to get to close to the roofing system deck. As soon as I had actually sawn with the remaining three bolts, I pried up the cover. The braces that were holding the cover in area. Cover removed from roofing vent. Then I loosened the braces from the flange of the air vent follower itself.

I scratched much more caulk and roof covering sealant off the flange of the roofing vent itself. I quickly found there were no much more screws or hardware holding it down so I gave up on the scraping and went inside the Recreational vehicle After scuffing the caulk and sealer from flange of roof air vent, no more screws!

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I chose a drill little bit close to the size of the shaft of the screws that I had actually currently pulled out and began exploration. Choosing a drill bit for piercing out a screw head.

Rather of standing out off the screw head, the plastic simply thawed away around the hot screw head. Hope I do not have to recycle this cover.

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All corner braces got rid of, ready to draw out. Once the brackets were out I returned up leading to pry out the the roof covering vent. I scraped up all the staying cruds and rubber roof. Taking off the old roofing air vent. There are two cords running to the roof air vent (a black warm cord and a white neutral cable) that you'll need to clip to remove the old vent.

These are the wires linking the roofing venting fan. I clipped them just above heaven splice joints. Roofing system air vent removed and tidied up. After clipping the cable and getting rid of the vent, I tidied up any kind of continuing to be goop and obtained my first good consider the roof covering framework. It's steel! 1 1/2 inches thick.

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Some RV roofs are mounted with wood, others have steel framework. I had no concept what was in my camper up until this point. Not also delighted about the quantity of rust on it, yet with any luck it is still structurally appear! I removed some corrosion and made a huge mess inside the bathroom.

Oops. Perhaps I need to have placed a tarpaulin down. My last goal of the day was to get the refrigerator air vent cover off. I discovered recreational vehicle sealer blobs at four points on the cover so thought there need to be screws under them. I tore them up and discovered Phillips screw heads.

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Subjecting the screws in the refrigerator air vent cap. Peeling off old motor home roofing system finish on top of fridge vent cap I additionally discovered that there was a coat of motor home roofing system finish over the air vent cap. These layers are painted on with a brush so plainly whoever did this covering simply blobbed in on top of everything.

Lifting off the cover of the fridge roofing vent. Cutting away much more rubber and scraping off Motor home roof covering sealer and old caulk. Scraping lap sealer and caulk from screw heads.

Prying off the fridge roof vent after all screws are eliminated. Virtually every screw was in great sufficient condition to get rid of with an outlet chauffeur, yet a couple were as well rusty and needed to be twisted out with vice grasp pliers.

Repair Rv Roof Santa Ana, CA

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I peeled the staying rubber roofing from under the flange and after that scratched off the old putty underneath. I'll clean it far better if and when I make a decision to recycle it. Appears like it's in respectable form so I most likely will. Scratching off the old putty from the flange of the fridge roofing vent.

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